
Scavaig, Rum & Muck
At a Glance

The Small Isles consist of Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna and you can spend three or four days exploring them (and many do);
This set of destinations is only for Muck & Rum and we have
included Scavaig, although beautiful, doesn't merit it's own single
entry. Hopefully we can improve on that in the years to come.
Loch Scavaig
There is an enclosed bay at the head of this Loch which is
unsurpassed for its beauty as it is buried deep inside the Cuillins
which swoop down on all sides into the sea. There is also a "sound"
backdrop provided by the waterfall tumbling down on the NW side.
There is nothing here but the view and most people just drop in for
the night and a walk round the headland to Loch Coruisk and then
set off for somewhere else.
If you are an experienced mountaineer/hill walker you may want
to stay a while and explore the Cuillins on foot, but note we used
the word "experienced"; as a country afternoon walker you will get
away with a gentle clamber round to Coruisk but even then it can be
boggy and is strewn with granite boulders to turn your ankle; for
the rest of us, best viewed from the bottom.
Loch Scresort (Rum)
This is a very popular anchorage; it is easy to get in and out,
there's plenty of room and there are some services ashore. There is
also the attraction of Kinloch Castle (more of which later). The
island is owned by Scottish Natural Heritage and some of it has
been designated as an SSI. These days there are no restrictions on
rambling on the island but you are expected to treat it with
respect. There are guided walks available, you can hire bicycles or
just do one of their nature trails. The Castle is open with guided
tours during the summer.
Muck
The smallest of the Small Isles, Muck has the best agricultural
land and less hilly than the others, (Rum of course is more
mountainous than "hilly") There are two anchorages here, one tricky
one on the Northern side (Gallanach Bay) and one on the South, Port
Mór. There are some facilities at Port Mór
but no shops; apart from the farm most of the accommodation is
given over to holiday lets and they have to bring all their
domestic supplies with them.
Scavaig, Rum & Muck
Approach
The first thing to note is that the Admiralty and Imray charts are of insufficient scale
to make an entry to any of these bays with any degree of confidence with the exception of Loch Scresort on Rum; most people who come here have on board a copy of the Clyde Cruising Club's Ardnamurchan point to Cape Wrath notes which give excellent chartlets or have the Antares charts on their chart plotter (or both!!) There three or four charts covering bits and pieces of these islands - I have tried to make a composite but they are different scales and projections and it came out a bit weird!
Another thing to note is that the tidal streams through the
Sound of Rum and the Sound of Eigg can be quite strong, you will
encounter back eddies and overfalls at various states of the tide
and weather. Note that about 4 hours before HW Dover it's all over
the place; but then again, that is not unusual in these parts and
you will get used to the dearth of detailed information.
Approach to Scavaig is, initially, free of dangers; coming from the
West or SW you can pass either side of Soay and, of course, coming
from the East you need to watch out for Eilean na h-Airde and its
associated shoals off the bottom of the Strathaird Promontory. From
a distance the cleft peak of Sgurr na Stri (see the photo in our
gallery) is a very good land mark just to the east of the Loch
Scavaig anchorage and when you are closer in you'll be able to pick
out Eilean Reamhar and the water streaming out of Coruisk over the
wide pavement of rock there.
The anchorage will still be out of sight behind Eilean Glas (but,
if you are lucky, you will see the masts of yachts already at
anchor there. Pass about half a cable east of Eilean Glas putting
you in the deep channel between it and the partially submerged, and
unmarked, Sgeir Docha. There is an anchorage in behind Eilean
Reamhar if it looks as though the popular anchorage inside Eilean
Glas is full.
Continue North West by North to pass half a cable east of Sgeir
Doigich before altering a touch to port to make good the entrance
of Loch na Cuilce (the main anchorage). There is a large rock slap
in the middle of the entrance which is submerged at HW; you can
pass either side of it but you really need to tip toe in on your
echo sounder. After that just find a spot to drop your pick.
It is reported that there are rings on the shore to which you can
attach a stern line continental style but a) we couldn't find one
and b) you need an extremely long warp to reach the shore. There
is also a little bay just to the east of the popular anchorage (not
where Coruisk empties, the next one) which we have been told,
provides an alternative anchorage. Be aware that some quite strong
and unexpected down draughts occur in these anchorages so extra
cable, anchors or shore warps are recommended. There are two short
videos of the approach to Loch Scavaig available at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZARXEJ3AfY
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9BdpgF3AxM
Loch Scresort (Rum) is not difficult to get into, you just
have to be careful of the shoal sticking out from the South shore
as you enter the loch but it is well marked with a NCM and should
cause you no problems. As you can see from our photo gallery, this
is a very popular destination for yachties; there were eighteen
yachts at anchor by the beginning of the first watch when we were
there and, throughout the evening the sound of 2 HP outboard motors
was noticeable and, for one who rows his dinghy, a tad irritable!!
For a bilge keeled yacht we found plenty of water about a cable off
the old jetty (marked as "Ramp" on the AC) but deep keeled yachts
had to anchor a bit further out. The Antares chart of the North
shore shows deeper water on that shore of the loch but you would
need an outboard to avoid a long row to the old quay from there as
there was no sign of a well beaten path along the shore to the
village on that side of the loch.
Gallanach Bay (Muck)
This is a totally different kettle of fish to either of the other
anchorages we have just described (and we haven't a video or
approach photos simply because, single handed, we were far too busy
with the nav to take any!) The CCC chartlet and Antares chart were
put to good use but the lead in bearing (and photograph) given by
the CCC was of primary importance. You have to be careful
identifying the wall that is the mark to keep in line with the barn
roof as, further out, the Eastern end of Beinn Airean is far more
obvious, similar and incorrect!!
Using the Seaclear plotter which meshed seamlessly with the Antares
chart was of great help in the initial approach but once
established on the lead in line further reference to the chart was
unnecessary (but continuous!)
The entry to Port Mór is not difficult being
well marked with lit navigation marks; just be careful if you are
coming round from the North of the island to stay a good 3 or 4
cables off shore until you can see the Ro-ro pier between Dubh
Sgeir and Bogha Ruadh (marked with lit perches) before turning in.
Then anchor in the bay well clear of the pier. We are told that
there is now a pontoon here at Port Mor with "limited depth"; one
would have to swing the lead and do the sums if berthing here.
£ GMT
Waypoint
Charts
Rules & Regs
Hazards
Tides
Berthing
This has been dealt with above
Facilities
Loch Scavaig There are no facilities here and the bothy is
firmly locked.
Loch Scresort Strangely enough all services apart from shore
power and Gas/Gaz are available; there are even showers in a shower
block shared with the campsite. There is a village hall with an
adjoining Post Office and shop. The village hall has a
café and is the centre of social life and the shop with
unusual continental opening hours (it closes for the afternoon and
is open during the dog watches), has an off sales licence and acts
as the bar in the early evening until the café opens for
the evening and becomes the local bar.
The shop which is described in the CCC notes as having "limited
stock" is anything but and carries quite a lot of what can only be
described as "gourmet" items. Kinloch castle is open for formal
tours which start, once a day, at either 1330 or 1400 depending on
the day of the week and you should check which, to avoid
disappointment, if that is your main reason for coming here.
We landed here after 1400, walked round to visit the castle and
found it closed and then walked further round to the shop only to
find that it, too, was closed until 1700 and returned on board to
sally forth later in the day! Unfortunately we only had the one
night here and missed the castle altogether.
Gallanach Bay has no services and one has to go round to Port
Mór to find showers and water as well as a small hotel
for a meal ashore (better book)
What to Do
You will have to fend for yourself at Scavaig but you are likely to find some impromptu entertainment in the community hall at both Port Mór and Loch Scresort.
History
Local Business
Uncategorised
Tide Information for scavaig-rum-muck
Tidal Information